Roads to and from Emmaus

Jerusalem, 16 December 2010

Emmaus it turns out is one of those contested places – meaning we're no longer sure where it is – there are inconsistencies in the gospel narratives that have meant multiple possible locations. So we took the road less travelled and talk a forest walk behind a Jewish settlement that has ruins of the main roman road to the north of Jerusalem nestled beside a mostly dry creekbed. In pilgrim style we walked in silence so the soundscape was birds and the crunching of gravel under other pilgrims feet, and the exhalations as people miss their footings on stones. Andrew led the way touching, as is his style, the old stones in a way that isn't so much a caress as an earthing a connecting into the story. I noticed the weeds catch my scarf wrapped cloak like around me and imagined these weeds great great grandfathers snagging the cloaks of bewildered disciples all those years ago.

We'd been invited to ponder during our walking the future and what it might hold but to me the path and the experience seemed like any other bush walk on a camp without the eucalyptus scent. The gunshot broke across our scattered praying sending the collectrive blood pressure of the group sky high, people tensed and the shots continued. We turned to walk back to the beginning – reassured it was only! a shooting range. But to me it was Empire casting its shadow over our time – for us its been the squeezing Israeli security mania for the disciples that Easter it was the Romans but for both it means that walkers into the future do so with fear – what will come next is in many ways beyond their control. It helped me see the fear in the story rather than merely the happy ending. The fear of those in Jerusalem realizing they were "on the wrong side" as it were – hiding. The fear of those who chose to walk home – no point hanging around when the hoped for revolution hasn't happened – but maybe dreading being stopped on the way. The fear of the Romans of losing control of the country they had suppressed – religious festivals and leaders a constant headache. The fear today of so many in this land – either those who chose to stay or those who attempt to walk a different way into the future. The fear of those everywhere facing the future – Empire still flexing its muscles, security still a concern, hopes still dashed, friends still crucified.

How might resurrection change this?

Emmaus the second is a town now known as Abu Ghosh – a rare place where Jews, Moslems and Christians live alongside each other with no wall. A place on the main road 60 stadia from Jerusalem. A place from where you can look down on the road from Jerusalem as it winds it was along the valley towards the coast and trading routes north. We visited a peaceful French Benedictine convent and celebrated our final communion together – outside beside an olive grove overlooking the road. A time to mark the Emmaus point of our pilgrimage – and to face the challenge – despite the comfort of this place will we take the more compelling challenge and return to the Jerusalems of our lives…the places where power must be confronted, the place were truth must be told, the place where we have been called to work and sacrifice – mindful too of the call beyond Jerusalem to Galilee to mission beyond the safety and to places of deep refreshment and prayer.

I intend thus.