Galilean Haven

Tabgna on the Sea of Galilee, 7 December 2010

Probably today of all days has felt most like walking in the footsteps of Jesus. There is someone about water – its every changing unchanging presence that holds memory and place. Thus it has been for me today as everywhere I have glimpsed or gazed or travelled over the water that Jesus called home. The sense of place and the shaping of a person has been profound – Capernaum has been excavated in parts and the 1ce basalt synagogue foundations were built on top of some time in the 4thCE but still the sense of it being in the middle of the town remains. Tall amidst the rabbit warren streets of the insaln (1story houses) which were added to as families grew. Central to people's lives it seems hardly a place for the rebel Jesus to stir up the congregation and plant further seeds of dissent in this outpost of empire. What was it about this town that made it home – was it just Peter's family all outgoing as Peter who made him feel welcome? It's not easy to speak out when you have been asked to leave your home town – easy to keep low and out of trouble. But I guess rebels don't have that in their DNA.

Galilee as a whole is incredible fertile – green and lush and covered now with farms of bananas, mangos and olives – it's the first dark brown soil I've seen since reaching the middle east – this is not the typical Judean place. My sense last night that was more deeply confirmed today is why would you ever want to leave here? It's beautiful – we've had low light casting shadows and cloud prints across the lake all day with the opposite shore swirling in and out of focus – there is a tremendous sense of peace. Yet Jesus chose to leave – and even more he convinced the disciples that they should leave too. Why – were they crazy – I realize fishing was hard work, and dangerous in a storm but on days like today where the Golan Heights, Magdala and Tiberias are reflected in the still waters, where Allison could see the bottom of the sea and when the boat barely rocked – why would you ever want to leave here for the craziness of Jerusalem?

But the powers that be are rarely found in the far off places, being accepted and comfortable even after having been shunned is not what it's about – call comes into play – purpose and mission and identity don't often lead to comfort and security. But perhaps they provide the bedrock in which these can form and be confirmed and shaped – like with the SyroPhonecian woman – in ways that will withstand the onslaught when the going gets tough.

Without the sacramental overtones of yesterdays Jordan visit – putting my feet into the Sea of Galilee was something I felt impelled to do – the mud sucks at your feet, covering them quickly and you feel like you are constantly sinking; the rocks are sharp too misshapen basalt shards only just starting to be worn smooth; but the water is cool and refreshing and surprisingly clear for a lake.

Truly a place of refreshment and peace.